Archive for August, 2007

Lawn Mower Wheels – Fix The Axle On Height Adjusters

On push mowers with the spring loaded height adjusters the attached axle usually needs to be replaced annually due to the metal shaft wearing down. It usually starts with a slight wobble of the rear wheels and then turns into an outright lean of the wheels as the wheel mounting hole and the shaft wear down. Replacing the wheel by itself will help for a while but it won't make it perfectly aligned because the axle has been worn down also and needs replacing.

Replacing the worn axle is easier than it sounds. First you need to remove the wheels, height adjuster and axle assembly from the mower. You will notice that the original axle has been stamped on to the height adjuster so it will need to be hacksawed off. Once you have sawed off the old axle then punch the remaining piece of old axle out of the height adjuster. Once the old piece has been removed there will be a 3/8 hole, most of the time. Sometimes the hole is a little smaller so you will need to drill it out to 3/8". Then get a 3/8" bolt long enough to go through the new wheel, two washers, and the height adjuster and leave approximately a half inch of thread showing for the retaining nut. You will need a piece of 3/8" ID and 1/2" OD piece of tubing to use as axle sleeves. Cut the tubing approximately 1/16" wider than the wheel mounting hole so when you tighten the retaining nut the wheel will turn freely. Lightly grease the 3/8" bolt before you put the tubing and wheel over it, tighten the retaining nut and you should be good for another year.
This fix should only cost about five dollars as opposed to replacing the height adjusters at a cost of fifteen dollars each and the parts can be bought at most home improvement or hardware stores.
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Bob Crane is the author of http://www.americanwrenches.com - a site that helps many find tools they need for their projects.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Randy - August 30, 2007 at 9:00 pm

Categories: Lawn Mower   Tags:

Toyota OBDII (CEL) Codes

If you have a problem with your Toyota Matrix where the check engine light comes on and goes off look for one of the evaporator system trouble codes to be set. I have had that happen to me three times so far this year and it turned out to be caused by the gas cap, but it is a good idea to have the OBD II codes just in case it is more than that. Sometimes on the Matrix, the evaporator system hoses can leak setting an engine code. If you suspect a leak in your evaporator system be sure to check the hoses on the canister above the rear axle.

Here are the Toyota OBDII (CEL) codes for those that need it.

Diagnostic Codes - Toyota
On-Board Diagnostics II OBDII

OBD II TROUBLE CODES (updated)

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Stable Operation
P0130 O2Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0131 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0132 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0133 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0134 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0135 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P0136 O2Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0137 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0138 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0139 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0140 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0141 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #2)
P0142 O2Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0143 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0144 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0145 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0146 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0147 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #3)
P0150 O2Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0151 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0152 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0153 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0154 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0155 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P0156 O2Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0157 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0158 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0159 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0160 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0161 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #2)
P0162 O2Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0163 O2Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0164 O2Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0165 O2Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0166 O2Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0167 O2Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #3)
P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank #1)
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank #1)
P0172 System Too Rich (Bank #1)
P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank #2)
P0174 System Too Lean (Bank #2)
P0175 System Too Rich (Bank #2)
P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0177 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0178 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0179 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High Input
P0180 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit High Input
P0184 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0186 Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P0187 Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input
P0188 Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit High Input
P0189 Fuel Temperature Sensor "B" Circuit Intermitten



P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0194 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High
P0199 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #1
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #2
P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #3
P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #4
P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #5
P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #6
P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #7
P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #8
P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #9
P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #10
P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #11
P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction — Cylinder #12
P0213 Cold Start Injector #1 Malfunction
P0214 Cold Start Injector #2 Malfunction
P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0217 Engine Over Temperature Condition
P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0219 Engine Over Speed Condition
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit Intermittent
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
P0234 Engine Over Boost Condition
P0261 Cylinder #1 Injector Circuit Low
P0262 Cylinder #1 Injector Circuit High
P0263 Cylinder #1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0264 Cylinder #2 Injector Circuit Low
P0265 Cylinder #2 Injector Circuit High
P0266 Cylinder #2 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0267 Cylinder #3 Injector Circuit Low
P0268 Cylinder #3 Injector Circuit High
P0269 Cylinder #3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0270 Cylinder #4 Injector Circuit Low
P0271 Cylinder #4 Injector Circuit High
P0272 Cylinder #4 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0273 Cylinder #5 Injector Circuit Low
P0274 Cylinder #5 Injector Circuit High
P0275 Cylinder #5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0276 Cylinder #6 Injector Circuit Low
P0277 Cylinder #6 Injector Circuit High
P0278 Cylinder #6 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0279 Cylinder #7 Injector Circuit Low
P0280 Cylinder #7 Injector Circuit High
P0281 Cylinder #7 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0282 Cylinder #8 Injector Circuit Low
P0283 Cylinder #8 Injector Circuit High
P0284 Cylinder #8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0285 Cylinder #9 Injector Circuit Low
P0286 Cylinder #9 Injector Circuit High
P0287 Cylinder #9 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0288 Cylinder #10 Injector Circuit Low
P0289 Cylinder #10 Injector Circuit High
P0290 Cylinder #10 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0291 Cylinder #11 Injector Circuit Low
P0292 Cylinder #11 Injector Circuit High
P0293 Cylinder #11 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0294 Cylinder #12 Injector Circuit Low
P0295 Cylinder #12 Injector Circuit High
P0296 Cylinder #12 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder #1 — Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder #2 — Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder #3 — Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder #4 — Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder #5 — Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder #6 — Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder #7 — Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder #8 — Misfire Detected
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0325 Knock Sensor #1 — Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 nock Sensor #1 — Circuit Range/Performance (Bank #1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor #1 — Circuit Low Input (Bank #1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor #1 — Circuit High Input (Bank #1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor #1 — Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank #1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor #2 — Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2)
P0331 Knock Sensor #2 — Circuit Range/Performance (Bank #2)
P0332 Knock Sensor #2 — Circuit Low Input (Bank #2)
P0333 Knock Sensor #2 — Circuit High Input (Bank #2)
P0334 Knock Sensor #2 — Circuit Input Intermittent (Bank #2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0351 Ignition Coil "A" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil "B" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil "C" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil "D" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil "E" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil "F" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil "G" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil "H" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0359 Ignition Coil "I" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil "J" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil "K" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil "L" Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" Too Few Pulses
P0373 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A" No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "B" Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "B" Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "B" Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "B" Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "B" No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Intermittent
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit Low
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit High
P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "B" Circuit Low
P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "B" Circuit High
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "A" Circuit Open
P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "A" Circuit Shorted
P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "B" Circuit Open
P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve "B" Circuit Shorted
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #1)
P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #1)
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #1)
P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #1)

P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank #1)
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #2)
P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #2)
P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #2)
P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank #2)
P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank #2)
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0466 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0468 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0469 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High
P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent
P0480 Cooling Fan #1 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0481 Cooling Fan #2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan #3 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0534 A/C Refrigerant Charge Loss
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0554 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0561 System Voltage Unstable
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch "A" Circuit High
P0574 Through P0580 Reserved for Cruise Codes
P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0602 Control Module Programming Error
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error
P0606 PCM Processor Fault
P0608 Control Module VSS Output "A" Malfunction
P0609 Control Module VSS Output "B" Malfunction
P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
P0621 Generator Lamp "L" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0622 Generator Field "F" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction
P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch "B" Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch "B" Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear #1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear #2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear #3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear #4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear #5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid "A" Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid "A" Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid "A" Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid "A" Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid "B" Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid "B" Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid "B" Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid "B" Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid "B" Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid "C" Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid "C" Performance Or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid "C" Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid "C" Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid "C" Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid "D" Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid "D" Performance Or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid "D" Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid "D" Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid "D" Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid "E" Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid "E" Performance Or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid "E" Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid "E" Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid "E" Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1–2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2–3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3–4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4–5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid Low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0801 Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1–4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1–4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
P1100 Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault
P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1125 Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction
P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P1127 ETCS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction
P1128 Throttle Control Motor Lock Malfunction
P1129 Electric Throttle Control System Malfunction
P1130 A/F Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P1133 A/F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P1135 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #1 Sensor #1)
P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P1153 A/F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P1155 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank #2 Sensor #1)
P1200 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Fault
P1300 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #1)
P1305 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #2)
P1310 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #3)
P1315 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #4)
P1320 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #5)
P1325 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #6)
P1330 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #7)
P1335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Fault (during engine running)
P1340 Igniter Circuit Fault (Bank #8)
P1400 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault
P1401 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Performance
P1500 Starter Signal Circuit Fault
P1510 Air Volume Too Low With Supercharger On
P1520 Stop Light Switch Signal Malfunction
P1600 ECM Battery Back-up Circuit Fault
P1633 ECM Malfunction (ETCS Circuit)
P1605 Knock Control CPU Fault
P1700 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault
P1705 Direct Clutch Speed Sensor Circuit Fault
P1765 Linear Shift Solenoid Circuit Fault
P1780 Park Neutral Position Switch Fault

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - at 2:14 am

Categories: Automotive, Toyota, Toyota Corolla, Toyota Matrix   Tags:

Troy Built Lawn Mower

My two year old Troy Built, self-propelled Tuf-Cut 210 had a front wheel that started wobbling badly. Since I really don't use the mower much I didn't know why the wheel should have gone bad so soon. I removed the wheel and noticed that the inner metal bushing had frozen itself to the axle shaft and began to spin inside of the plastic wheel causing the inside of the axle hole to wear out completely. The wheel went bad on the left front of the mower. The wheel on the right front of the mower seemed ok until I took it off and noticed that it too was just beginning to spin on the inner shaft but it had not really done much damage to the inside of the wheel yet.

I took both wheels off and freed up both inner bushings and removed them. The axle itself seems to be in pretty good shape so I will be able to re-use it this time. In the future I will have to be more diligent about checking the lubricant on the axle shafts and re-lube them periodically. My old mower is a strictly push type with plastic wheels that never needed and lube so I just assumed that this Troy Built was the same. But is isn't so be sure to keep the wheels rolling freely in front so they don't chew the center out of the wheels.
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Bob Crane is the author of http://www.americanwrenches.com - a site that helps many find tools they need for their projects.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Randy - August 26, 2007 at 9:36 pm

Categories: Lawn Mower   Tags:

Toyota Corolla With Poor Gas Mileage

I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla that normally averages 38 miles per gallon. I usually keep track of the mileage at each fill-up and noticed the mileage dropping slightly every week. I really didn't think anything of it at first I thought it could be the weather or possibly the gas itself.

It didn't seem to matter, the mileage kept decreasing until the car was getting only 30 miles per gallon. I knew something must be wrong so I took it in to the Toyota dealership to have them check it out. They found nothing wrong with the car at all, either with the electronic system or mechanically. The car only has 80,000 miles on it so I figured that it couldn't be wear causing any problems not yet at least. When I was in the car business it was not uncommon to see a Toyota Corolla with 200,000 miles on it and still running strong.


During closer observation of the engine I noticed that it idled fast as though it was cold even after having been driven for several miles and the temperature gauge in the normal range. In the same conditions a few miles down the road the idle was normal then after that it went to fast idle again. After looking in the shop manual for the 1995 Corolla, I went to the dealer again and asked them what it could be and they said that they have never heard of that happening. I decided to investigate the problem myself to avoid expensive diagnostic costs. I checked a maintenance manual for the car and found that there was an (IAC) idle air control valve that let air bypass the throttle body when the engine was cold to allow for a faster warm-up idle. Once the engine was up to temperature the valve would close and the idle would return to normal. I checked and changed the easy things first, PCV Valve, air cleaner, etc. but no luck.

I decided that I was going to have to remove the Idle Air Control valve and check it to see if it was working the way it is supposed to. I really was trying to avoid removing the idle air control valve because it required draining some anti-freeze. The idle air control valve is directly below the throttle body and has coolant lines running through its housing to provide water from the cooling system to the thermally activated motor that turns the Idle Air Control Valve on and off. I did the work on the engine when it was cold so not too much water leaked out. When I got to the valve shaft I noticed some corrosion on it and cleaned that off, other than the corrosion the idle air control valve looked to be in good shape.



After putting the IAC valve back together I drove the car to see if there was any change and there was not. It still idled erratically. As the engine was warming up, however, I noticed that the temperature gauge went way down when the thermostat opened up them gradually returned to its normal range. That seemed odd so I got a temperature probe and dipped it into the coolant to see exactly where it was and found that it was approximately ten degrees cooler than it should have been. At that point I just let the engine idle for fifteen minutes and the idle went to normal and the coolant temperature went to its operating range. That fluctuation in temperature told me that the problem was the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat with a genuine Toyota part even though it is more expensive it is worth the money because it is exactly like the old one and the gasket pattern is the same. The after-market thermostat , from a local auto parts store, was made to fit many types of cars so to make it work for my Corolla would mean that I would have to drill a small hole in the edges of the new thermostat for bypass where the OEM thermostat needed no modifications to work properly.

Bob Crane is the author of http://www.alltoyotacorolla.com - a site for Toyota Corolla's

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - at 7:44 pm

Categories: Toyota Corolla   Tags:

Lawn Mower – Briggs Stratton Engine Won’t Stay Running

Had a problem with my two tear old lawn mower where it wouldn't stay running. I was just mowing the lawn and it abruptly stopped. There was plenty of gas in it and everything else looked OK, I just couldn't figure out why it stopped.

After checking the spark plug and oil, all of the easy stuff, I took the air cleaner off to look inside of the carburetor, in the carburetor throat there was a coating of black dust that didn't look like it was supposed to be there. I would have thought that the air cleaner would have stopped the dust from getting through, but instead there it was. I checked the air cleaner itself closely and found an area where the air was getting by the filter and right into the engine.

I decided then to take the carburetor off and clean the dirt out of it. I flushed it out with carburetor cleaner until everything that I could see inside came clean and free of dirt. Then I checked the float and fuel feed to make sure the engine had adequate flow of fuel, which it did. I then re-assembled the carburetor and tried to start the engine. After a couple of pulls it started right up and ran great while I finished the lawn.

Afterwards I went to the lawn mower shop and got a new air cleaner to replace the old damaged one.
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Bob Crane is the author of http://www.americanwrenches.com - a site that helps many find tools they need for their projects.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Randy - August 24, 2007 at 2:53 am

Categories: Lawn Mower   Tags:

Air Conditioning Ductwork – It Pays To Clean It

During this hot summer that we are having here in Florida, I thought my air conditioner was unable to handle the load.  Even though it seemed to be working right and the compressor had plenty of freon it just seemed to run forever to just keep the house at eighty degrees.  I had called a couple of air conditioner companies to check the unit out and make sure it was operating right and they both said that everything was ok.  The last technician told me that I may want to have my ductwork professionally cleaned since the house was over thirty years old.  We had only bought the house three years ago and there was no history for the air conditioning service.


We decided to take his advice and have the ductwork cleaned.  The duct cleaning company came equipped with a large vacuum cleaner and an air compressor to do the job. What they did was start at the furthest end of the house away from the blower and put the compressed air lines in there along with a device that went down the ductwork blowing the dirt out of all of the nooks and crannies.  On the other end, where the blower normally is, they put the vacuum cleaner to collect the dirt as it was blown through.  When they started I couldn't believe all of the dirt and dust that had been sitting up there.  It was a steady flow of dirt from one end of the ductwork to the other.

They did a real thorough job and when they had finished  I noticed a definite difference in both the air flow and temperature.  Now the house gets cooler much faster without the air conditioner having to work so hard and long to bring the temperature down.  I'll make another post when I get my next electric bill, but I bet it will be a big improvement.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Randy - at 2:40 am

Categories: Air Conditioner, Home Owner   Tags:

Faucet Leak – Fixing A Slow Drip

There are several types of faucets, some are single lever, and others have both hot and cold knobs.

If you have a faucet leak it is necessary to know if you have a washer and seat type or a cartridge type. A washer and seat type of faucet is designed to have the washer attached to the part of the faucet that moves when you turn the handle either open or closed. As you turn the handle the washer either gets farther away from the seat, when you open the faucet, or closer to the seat as you close the faucet.

If you have a faucet that drips after you have shut it off, even after you try to tighten it, you may have a bad washer. Before you do anything you need to go to a hardware store and get an assortment of washers and brass screws so you don't have to take the faucet apart twice. Since the washers are cheap it will be a time saver to just get a few extras.

Once you have the washers turn off the water supply to the faucet and remove the faucet handle. Then remove the large nut right below the faucet handle and unscrew the stem (the part that the handle attaches to). With the stem removed you will find the washer attached to the bottom of the stem. Unscrew the brass screw that is holding the washer and remove the old washer. Match-up the old washer and screw with a new one and install the new washer and screw.


With the new washer and screw installed you now need to check the seat that the washer makes contact with in the faucet. Look down into the faucet with a flashlight and check to see if the seat is intact all the way around it. Depending on how long it was dripping it may have worn a groove in the metal. If the seat looks smooth then just replace the stem with the new washer and the leak should be fixed. If you noticed that the seat has a groove worn into it you will need to touch-up the seat with a tool designed to do that. The seat tool can be found at a hardware store. How the seat tool works is you hold it up against the worn seat and grind the high edges of the seat down to meet the height of the worn part of the seat. After you are finished grinding the seat it should be flush all the way around so when the washer comes in contact with it the water flow will be completely stopped.

The seat grinding tool is not very expensive and it is easy to use. You just turn it by hand, it is not a power tool.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - August 22, 2007 at 4:23 pm

Categories: Faucet Plumbing   Tags:

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water May Not Be Yellow Algae

Last spring I had a problem with my swimming pool that stumped both my pool supply company and myself. It was during early Florida spring when all of that yellow dust or pollen is in the air. My pool began to get cloudier and cloudier and the filter could not seem to keep up with clearing the water.
Usually during this time of the year the sand filter had no trouble keeping up with the pollen. It just needed to be back-flushed more often.

This year it was different. As the days went by I was no longer able to see the bottom of the pool and it wasn’t getting any better. At that time I figured that I better take a water sample down to the pool chemical supplier and have them test it. When I tested it always came back with readings indicating that all of the chemicals were in their ideal range. The pool chemical supplier said that the water looked ok and that my problem is most likely yellow or mustard algae. I bought chemicals to treat the algae which required that the filter be running for twenty-four hours to be effective. When I checked the water the next day it was even worse yet. I went back to the pool chemical company and they told me that the process would work it just took time, but that I should start seeing results.

After not seeing results I went to a different pool supply company and the people there knew what the problem was right away just by looking at the water sample that I had brought in. They said that it was the filter. The sand in the filter had become ineffective so I changed the sand and ran the filter for another twenty-four hours and it cleared right up. It turned out that the sand in a sand filter can lose its edges over a few years of being in a filter so the contaminants just pass right through it and back into the pool.



It definitely would have benefited me to get a second opinion before I took any action on trying to fix the cloudy water problem. The cost of running the filter all of those extra hours and the algae chemical were unnecessary expenses.

Changing the sand in a pool filter is routine maintenance that should be done every two years. To keep it running at it’s peak performance.

There are some opinions about a cartridge filter being better that a sand filter. The reasons that I have heard include, they don’t waste water in a back-flush, and there is little or no maintenance at all with a cartridge filter.

My experience with a cartridge filter, since I was talked into replacing my sand filter with one, has been just the opposite. A cartridge filter needs a lot more cleaning than I was led to believe and it takes a lot longer and uses a lot more water. The only difference is that the water doesn’t come from the pool. How you flush out a cartridge filter is was it off with a garden hose. So if you have a relatively large filter cartridge you can be washing your filter for at least a half-hour. The old sand filter took only five minutes to back-flush and most of that time was spent rolling and unrolling the drain hose.

Conclusion: I will be switching back to a sand filter this year.

Bob Crane is the author of http://www.poolheadquarters.com - a site that helps swimmers find what they need for their swimming pools.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - at 3:51 pm

Categories: Swimming Pool   Tags:

1995 Ford Taurus Heater Fan Out Of Control

A problem with my 1995 Ford Taurus LX wagon caused the blower motor to operate at high speed with no way to slow it down. It just happened one day when i went to drive the car that the climate control fan ran out of control. The day before it had been fine so there was no warning when it decided to go haywire. The car has an electronic climate control system that regulates the fan speed electronically when you roll a wheel in the direction of either fast or slow.

I checked the climate control assembly by swapping it with another one that I had and there was no change. Checking further into the schematic I noticed that there was a variable blower control, (Ford part number: E9DZ-19E624-A), mounted in the ductwork to feed the temperature and motor speed back to the climate controller. Together they formed a feedback loop.

I removed the variable blower control from the ductwork and noticed that there was a damaged part of the circuit board rendering it inoperable. Since the variable blower control is a dealer item I had to order it from the dealer. I checked several aftermarket auto parts stores and none of them had a part like that so the dealer was the only option. It turned out that the dealer had one nearby at one of their other dealerships so I was able to have the part in a few hours. When I got it and put it in the blower worked fine. So it turned out to be a simple problem requiring a one hundred and twenty dollar part to fix.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - at 3:03 am

Categories: Ford Taurus   Tags:

Toilet Leak – Fix A Leak Coming From Under The Toilet

Most toilets are constructed to have two joints where a leak may occur during a flush. After a toilet talk fills the only thing preventing the water from flowing out is a rubber flapper covering the water exit in the bottom of the toilet tank. The water is released when the flush lever is pressed. Once the flush lever is pressed the water begins to flow out of the tank and into the bowl where it washes away whatever is in the bowl at the time. As the water is flowing out of the tank it passes a gasket between the toilet tank and the toilet bowl, and then it passed the wax gasket that is between the toilet bowl and the drain pipe. Water rushing past either of these gaskets can leak out if the gaskets have deteriorated enough to create a seem for the water escape through.

Sometimes the wax gasket under the toilet can develop a leak, especially if the floor that the toilet is sitting on isn't completely flat. If the floor has any give to it the toilet will move and eventually separate itself from the wax gasket. When that happens the only fix is to replace the wax gasket. To do that you will need to shut off the incoming water to the toilet and drain it completely. Once the tank is completely drained you can remove the tank with the two bolts under neath the tank. They will be the two bolts holding the toilet tank to the toilet. Remove the water supply line and the two bolts and remove the tank from the toilet. Once the tank is removed you will need to loosen the bolts on the bottom of the toilet bowl. Once the bolts are loose you can lift the toilet off of the floor and lay it on it's side so you can see the wax gasket. The wax gasket will be surrounding the outlet on the bottom of the toilet. There may also be some wax gasket stuck to the pipe flange that the toilet was bolted to. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from both the bottom of the toilet and the pipe flange to prepare the surface for the new gasket.

When you unwrap the new wax gasket it will be sticky and will want to stick to anything it touches. You should hold it with the wax paper that it came in or get a piece of wax paper to hold the gasket with. Stick the new gasket to the bottom of the toilet where the old gasket came from and make sure it sticks and seals all the way around. Prepare the bolts on the flange where the toilet will attach and make sure they are straight and stay up straight as you slide the toilet down over them. It is important that you make sure the bolts will stay up as you put the toilet down because you don't want any interference when you are attaching the toilet to the floor. If you make contact with the new gasket and the flange you don't want to have to lift the toilet up again because that will ruin the new gasket. Wax gaskets are made to make contact once and stay in position to form a tight seal.


As you tighten the bolts that hold the toilet down do so gently as they are not meant to be made really tight. You may need to sit on the toilet to make sure the wax gasket compresses fully so the toilet doesn't move as it is being used or when water enters the tank. The toilet has to be flush with the floor then tighten the bolts just snug to keep it there. Once the toilet has been installed you can replace the toilet tank. You will notice a gasket between the toilet tank and the toilet bowl. If you haven't had a leak there just re-use the old gasket as it has formed to the toilet and the tank already. I was trying to be too much of a perfectionist once and replaced all of the gaskets, to be on the safe side, only to have the gasket between the tank and bowl leak. I replaced the new gasket with the old one and the leak stopped. The porcelain tan, on the toilet that I was working on wasn't formed square so the original gasket formed itself around the irregularities and created a tight seal. The new gasket was too hard to conform to the irregularities of the tank material.

To insure against the possibility of the toilet tank bolts leaking from the inside which would require you to remove them again to fix the leak, put some putty on the inside washers before you re-install the tank. The putty will fill in any void and help prevent any leaks.

Re-attach the water line and fill the tank checking for leaks as it fills. Once it fills flush a couple of times to check for leaks, if you don't find any leaks you are done.

Be the first to comment - What do you think?  Posted by Bob Crane - August 21, 2007 at 1:35 pm

Categories: Home Owner, Toilet   Tags:

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